KTM 950

Carretera Austral

Cold and wet on the Austral in southern Chile. Near La Junta, Chile

Distrito de Lagos y mantenimiento de la moto

I was climbing the walls in Santiago and relieved to have a new passport and be on the road again. I feel pressed for time but don’t know why, the looming winter in the south, perhaps. 300+ mile days of high speed asphalt don’t normally appeal to me but the bike is running well and […]

Take a number please

With the bike’s forks sorted I head north to find a pass that will take me to Uspallata and then on to the Chilean border for a third time. I’m looking for a dirt pass in lieu of the more traveled main road and while I do find the road, I later learn it’s not […]

El Maestro

Thousands of miles of punishing Andean off-road riding through Peru and Bolivia have left the SE’s forks in a state of severe disrepair. I’m very fortunate to meet this gentleman and proprietor of Ajar Suspension in Mendoza. A true artisan, thank you, Juan!

Getting on Argentine time

I feel trapped in San Pedro but I picked up a nagging cough in Bolivia and need to rest up before riding over Paso Sico to Salta. I pass the time with my friend Paul, who I met in Uyuni, and another friend, Stefan, who’s on a 990 heading north. I convince Stefan he needs […]

Flip flopping in the Atacama desert

The last four months of riding in Peru and Bolivia have been epic to say the least. As I descend some 8k feet from the Bolivian alitplano to the Atacama desert plain I reflect on a kaleidoscope of experiences I won’t soon forget. That tranquil border crossing in northern Peru seems so far away now […]

Pink flamingoes and floating heads in the desert

Still on a wave of euphoria from the salar experience I head south for the lagunas the following morning. I ride with a German friend of mine who is on a well set up airhead GS. He has no interest in riding the more remote route through the south so we will part ways in […]

Laguna Verde

Quite possibly my favorite place on earth. Laguna Verde, Parque Avaroa, Potosi, Bolivia

Can someone spare some rice?

Salar de Uyuni is one of those places I knew I would have to visit from the first moment I saw images of motorbikes ridden across its vast white surface that goes on seemingly forever. The combination of immense remoteness and unfamiliar beauty combine for an intoxicating allure that will punish the unprepared traveler. At […]

Leaving the Altiplano

After months of climbing some of the highest peaks in the Americas and being in a permanent state of asphyxia I’m exiting southern Bolivia and descending some 8,000 feet to the Atacama desert in Chile. Bolivia/Chile Frontera