I get my first taste of the Patagonia winds as I round Lago Nahuel Huapi. The weather, though quite cool, is nice with lots of blue skies and fluffy clouds. Bariloche is a major ski destination for South America and its predominantly Swiss architecture gives the city a Swiss Alps feel. As I walk around […]
I was climbing the walls in Santiago and relieved to have a new passport and be on the road again. I feel pressed for time but don’t know why, the looming winter in the south, perhaps. 300+ mile days of high speed asphalt don’t normally appeal to me but the bike is running well and […]
I feel trapped in San Pedro but I picked up a nagging cough in Bolivia and need to rest up before riding over Paso Sico to Salta. I pass the time with my friend Paul, who I met in Uyuni, and another friend, Stefan, who’s on a 990 heading north. I convince Stefan he needs […]
The last four months of riding in Peru and Bolivia have been epic to say the least. As I descend some 8k feet from the Bolivian alitplano to the Atacama desert plain I reflect on a kaleidoscope of experiences I won’t soon forget. That tranquil border crossing in northern Peru seems so far away now […]
Still on a wave of euphoria from the salar experience I head south for the lagunas the following morning. I ride with a German friend of mine who is on a well set up airhead GS. He has no interest in riding the more remote route through the south so we will part ways in […]
Salar de Uyuni is one of those places I knew I would have to visit from the first moment I saw images of motorbikes ridden across its vast white surface that goes on seemingly forever. The combination of immense remoteness and unfamiliar beauty combine for an intoxicating allure that will punish the unprepared traveler. At […]
Sucre is an oasis of culture, Mediterranean weather, and easy breathing, and it pains me to leave. I have a passport that is expiring in the coming weeks and the weather down south will deteriorate soon so I need to be moving on. The consolation is the next leg of my journey will take me […]
The ride to Puno is short and paved, which is good since I’m not in the mood for one of my marathon riding days. Two weeks in Chicago (at sea level) over the holidays have left me gasping for breath at Puno’s 12k ft. After months of riding the Andes I appear to have lost […]
