The holidays take my breath away

The ride to Puno is short and paved, which is good since I’m not in the mood for one of my marathon riding days. Two weeks in Chicago (at sea level) over the holidays have left me gasping for breath at Puno’s 12k ft. After months of riding the Andes I appear to have lost my mountain lungs. It was great to reconnect with family over the holidays but the flight back to Peru reignites that tank slapper of highs and lows that accompany me on my journey. It never gets easy leaving all that you know and love for the uncertainty of the unknown and my travels are very much an exercise in tempering these lows through riding and discovery. Suddenly I’m back in space trying to figure out how my tire went flat while the bike is parked in the lobby of the hostal. I’ve had more flats with this front scorpion than any other tire. Weary of walking the calles of Puno in a haze of homesickness and altitude sickness I throw a leg over and point the bike toward Copacabana, Bolivia. I struggle to recall the last time I crossed a border.

Apparently the tube has a slow leak as the front goes flat again an hour or so outside of Copacabana. I will try a patch this time as I’m convinced the tire is puncturing the tube and I don’t want to ruin a good tube. I get a good vibe from Copa, the parque is bustling with activity and the main cathedral (Basilica de Virgen de la Candelaria) commands my attention as I climb the hill to the square, it’s a magnificent structure for such a small town. In usual fashion I fan out from the main square in search of my accommodations. I inadvertently turn down the main market street, I try to avoid these streets when I’m fully loaded and riding in town for the first time, the tractor beam of wrong turns is a strong one. I struggle to keep the bike upright as people and livestock flood around me and I creep through a labyrinth of vibrant Andean colors and a collage of smells that assault my senses. It’s like Peru on steroids.

The hotel manager speaks near perfect English. The cleanliness and newness of the building indicates I can’t afford it but I like to indulge myself. 80 Bs for a private room and bathroom? And you have a secure place to park my bike plus wifi? I’ll take it. I have a system where I can carry ALL of my luggage from the bike to the room in one trip, the benefits of soft bags. The trek up the four flights of stairs to my room nearly incapacitates me and it takes some time to recover once at the top. Copa is higher than Puno and I’m still not acclimated. That night I experience what some of my friends experienced while we were camped in Pang, India (~15K ft) during our Indian Himalayan moto trip. As soon as I drift off to sleep I stop breathing and I need to wake to resume breathing. As a former distance runner I have a low resting heart rate and it’s especially disconcerting not being able to control my breathing. After the second night of the same I decide to take action. A little research reveals there is a pill I can buy locally that relieves the symptoms of altitude sickness and is known to aid in acclimation. The primary ingredients in Sorojchi pills are aspirin and caffeine so I figure it’s worth trying. Within minutes of taking the capsule I feel relief and that night I sleep for the first time in Copacabana.

I arrive in Copa to one of the many festivals that occur throughout the year. I am told this is one of the Virgin de Copacabana festivals though the main celebration is in August. The markets here are quite festive on their own so the town is in full on fiesta mode now. I can’t say enough about the Bolivian markets, I walk through them daily and I’m still fascinated by the experience, commerce Bolivian style. A highlight of my visit is taking a boat ride out to Isla del Sol where I hike the length of the island taking in accounts of Incan origin mythology and ruins dating back to the third millennium BC. I spend most of my time in Copa hanging out in the markets and watching the Benedicion de Movildades (blessing of automobiles). I have to admit I was tempted to get my KTM blessed. Perhaps a blessing would eliminate some of the flat tires I get? My visit to Copacabana seems to cure what ails me so I prepare the bike for the ride to La Paz where it will get some much needed maintenance.