I depart Chachapoyas in the morning around 9ish, a time slot I’ve settled into since leaving the states. I’m heading to Kuelap to check out some ancient ruinas and then on to Celendin. I have a bad habit of underestimating the time and effort required to accomplish a given day’s riding schedule and this will be no different. I hit the big dirt road out of Chachapoyas and hook up with the main road to Tingo which is where I will find the road to Kuelap. For some reason I figured Kuelap to be a minor pit stop for the day but the 22 mile stretch of heavily switch backed hard pack leading UP to the 10K foot site says otherwise. I expect no fuel accomodations on this road so I top off with some home brew in Tingo and head out. Once there I make the additional 6 km trek by foot. Hiking in moto gear is always fun. Kuelap is truly something to behold and for me puts in perspective the power of human labor.
The sun was already in its afternoon descent by the time I returned to Tingo and I was nowhere near Celendin. The road running along the Utcubamba is fast and I make good time though the switch back marathon you have to run to get over the next pass slows me a bit. The sun was down by the time I got to the Rio Maranon crossing and I got some odd looks from the check point folks. A night ride it is. The sparse head lights outlining the switch backed road leading up the dark mountain in front of me are comforting. Fortunately the pass to Celendin is well graded with wide switch backs. My one one remaining driving light and the bike`s stock lights provide ample lighting and illuminate the dust like a light house does the fog. I`m steadfast in overcoming the slower moving traffic and roll in to Celendin without incident.
*map not 100% accurate
