With the bike repaired and me mostly healed up I get on the road and head for Banos. Advrider inmate Candohome (Aaron) recommends a route that cues up volcan Tungarugua and I lace up the twisties that snake around the base of the volcan and into Banos. The weather is idyllic making for the perfect post-biff ride to get my legs back under me. Banos is named after the thermal springs that dot the city and is considered the “Gateway to the Amazon” as it’s located on the Pastaza River, a tributary to the Amazon River. Surrounded by lush mountaintops the city is tranquillo and inviting to travelers and I resist the urge to make it an extended stay.
Habitacion in Banos: Casa Mariane
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I get an escort from Aaron, two up with his better half, Carol, for the ride out of Banos (I spaced and didn’t get a picture of them before we parted ways). Given the success of the last route Aaron suggested I’m anxious to see what riding bliss awaits me for the long way to Cuenca via Macas. The skies begin to turn sour as I head south for Riobamba and in what seems like an instant the temperature drops and the skies open up. After some confusion I hook up with the PanAm out of Riobamba and the weather worsens. As I climb in elevation I appear to be riding into a giant storm cloud that has settled on the mountain range. Visibility is virtually nil and my hands white knuckle as my grip firms on the bike’s handlebars. I’m reminded of my hand injury as the cold rain stings through my mesh gloves and I struggle to grasp the brake lever with the swollen finger. Taking what appears to be the turn off for Macas, I’m greeted by road construction and mud. After meandering through jammed traffic and taking a number of wrong turns the worsening weather has its way with me and I opt to make for the relative certainty of the Pan Am. With visibility at about 5 feet, temps dropping, and rain increasing, I hunker down for what would be a fairly unpleasant ride to Cuenca. Four hours later I arrive in Cuenca thoroughly soaked and trying to fight off a bone-chilling shiver. The day’s ride was enough to deplete what was left of my rear brake pads so I would need to pay a visit to the KTM shop. I thank Juan Carlos of KTM Ecuador for taking care of me. Originally a Canari settlement, Cuenca is a beautiful and historic city and fits the profile of Latin American cities I prefer to spend time in but the cold and rain, not to mention the need to get south, compel me to keep moving.
Habitacion in Cuenca: El Cafecito Hostal