John and I break camp the next morning trying not to wake our companions still sleeping off the previous night’s libation. The wind and construction resume moments after leaving the protection of the town’s infrastructure. I like a big hearty breakfast before taking on the day’s ride but often it’s not possible, especially in Argentina where breakfast is not that substantial. Fighting Patagonia winds on an empty stomach is a daunting task and thankfully we find a comedor in Tres Lagos. Perhaps it’s because I am famished but the lentil soup at La Union is the best I can recall eating. The hearty fare is just the nourishment I need for battling the fierce crosswinds hammering our route to El Chalten.
El Chalten is home to Mt. Fitz Roy and its jagged peaks are synonymous with Patagonia for me. Named after Robert Fitz Roy, captain of the HMS Beagle, getting a good view of its smoking granite peaks can be a challenge given they are obscured by what seems to be constant cloud cover. We arrive to partially blue skies and can surprisingly see some of the peaks though within a half hour the mountain is enveloped in clouds. I won’t see the peaks again until I leave.
John and I part ways again as I opt to hang out in El Chalten for few days and relax while hiking the surrounding area. I spend a day hiking up to Laguna Torre to see the glacier. I take the long trail which meanders along the Fitz Roy river and has plenty of ascents to get the heart rate up. I make good time in spite of getting off to a late start. Fall is in full swing and the colors are a nice complement to the falling snow and icy fiords. The visibility is not great when I arrive at the glacier. Cerro Torre is barely visible and I struggle to capture a detailed image of the ice with the limited range of my point and shoot. The sun is falling fast and the snow is not letting up so I forgo the additional hour+ hike up to the glacier for a closer look. I should have left earlier. I hike at a brisk pace and my tightening hamstrings remind me I’m out of shape. I will sleep well tonight.
