Argentina

The city of fair winds

After a year of living on the road I look forward to shedding my tourist skin. Staying with my friend in Recoleta is a welcome dose of domestic life. She lives with her 96 year old grandmother and I enjoy being a temporary addition to their family. The neighborhood has a Parisian feel to it […]

The Paris of maintenance

Buenos Aires means maintenance so I head to Dakar Motos in Florida Oeste where I will spend a few weeks working on the bike and easing back into civilization after the long ride through Patagonia. Negrita is the shop cat and she likes the mornings. I go about sorting my bike and travel plans and […]

La Posta

legendary in the motorcycle travel world, you don’t come to South America without visiting La Posta. Azul, Argentina

Pollo y Azul

It is tough to leave the comfort of El Gualicho but I need to get north. I was unable to find a rear tire in Puerto Madryn so what rubber that remains will need to get me to the next destination. The 400+ miles to Bahia Blanca passes by effortlessly as I continue to distance […]

When the rubber meets the ruta 3

My battery is flat again the following morning and I convince the owner of the hostal to give me a jump. His wife seems displeased that her husband didn’t use the opportunity to bleed me for more money. Tired of being cold and wanting to escape the cash vortex of Rio Gallegos I get on […]

The ride north begins

I hit the lonnggg, cold, and windy grind up ruta 3 in search of warmer days. I’ve been heading south since I left my home in Arizona and for the first time in almost a year I point the bike on a northern trajectory. I want to make it to Rio Gallegos from Ushuaia which […]

Todo Sur

I depart Natales just before noon to avoid the subfreezing temps of the morning. I’m accompanied by a steady tailwind and blue skies for the short ride to Punta Arenas where I’ll catch a ferry and cross the Strait of Magellan to Tierra del Fuego. Since it’s the off season I check the ferry schedule […]

Todo sur

After thousands of miles and a year of travel I’ve reached the southern tip of South America and the end of ruta 3. Tierra del Fuego, Argentina

The torrential Torres

I leave El Calafate and make my way for the border crossing at Rio Turbio. The ruta 40 is surprisingly tranquil as I ride it for the last time on my southern trajectory. I stop at the only gas station I will see on this route looking to top off for a pass through Torres […]

Here comes the sun

After several cloudy mostly sun-free days I figure seeing Fitz Roy is not in the cards so I decide to head south for El Calafate. I get the bike packed down and I notice the first sun beams breaking through the thinning clouds overhead. Perhaps I will get a last minute reprieve. El Calafate is […]