I leave El Calafate and make my way for the border crossing at Rio Turbio. The ruta 40 is surprisingly tranquil as I ride it for the last time on my southern trajectory. I stop at the only gas station I will see on this route looking to top off for a pass through Torres del Paine on the way to Puerto Natales. I see the attendant from across the road as I snap photos but he manages to disappear before I arrive 10 minutes later. After 20 minutes of knocking on the door and walking around the establishment I give up. I take a lunch break at Cerro Castillo and try to find gas. My inquiries are fruitless and the weather turns violent as I finish my coffee. The temperature drops precipitously as I’m pounded by wind and sideways rain for the remaining distance to Puerto Natales.
I head back to Cerro Castillo the following day for a hearty breakfast then north for a day of riding in Torres del Paine. An amalgamation of granite peaks, desert, glacial activity, and a smorgasbord of wild life and geology, the Torres is my new favorite park in Patagonia. The weather starts off pleasant enough and it appears I will have a good day of riding. As I near the park I am captivated by the Paine massif and watch with interest the percolating cloud activity contained by its main face. I reach the park entrance and hang out with the rangers for a half hour or so chatting and gathering intel about road conditions before riding north around Lago Nordenskjold to get a view of the three iconic granite torres. The weather around the peaks is worsening and visibility is virtually nil. After a few attempts at different approaches I accept the weather is not going to cooperate and make my way south for the mirador on Lago Pehoe. The cloud activity I’ve been observing all day is now rolling over the face of the massif and carrying with it torrential rains and winds. I snap a few pics and retreat for the southern exit to the park as I am pounded with sleet from all sides. The bad weather seems to switch off as I reach the park exit and I’m treated to rainbows and mostly blue skies for the ride back to Pt. Natales.
I inquire with a number of the local tour companies about hiking the W trail. This trail is a highlight of the park and a number of friends have recommended I hike it. Unfortunately the consensus is the weather will be bad. I can deal with rain and cold on individual terms but camping in the cold rain is not something I can get excited about. Especially since I’m still nursing a cough I picked up in Bolivia.
I stay at Hostal Milodon in Pt. Natales and spend a few days hanging out and enjoying the hospitality of Carmen and her friends. The kitchen seems to be the nucleus of the hostal, perhaps it’s the aromatic warmth emanating from its walls, because the kitchen is where all the good conversation occurs. It’s a magical place for me as all the food I bring back from the market gets prepared here without me doing any cooking. Great ladies.
Salud!
