I hit the lonnggg, cold, and windy grind up ruta 3 in search of warmer days. I’ve been heading south since I left my home in Arizona and for the first time in almost a year I point the bike on a northern trajectory. I want to make it to Rio Gallegos from Ushuaia which translates into almost 400 miles, a ferry, and 2 border crossings, all in a limited amount of daylight. The snow and ice on Garibaldi Pass are manageable though I feel colder than I normally do. This may be the coldest day I’ve ridden in yet. I stop at the famous bakery in Tolhuin for a cafe and media luna and to get the warmth back in my fingers.

Until today I don’t know that the wire for the bike’s fuel reserve light is pinched from the last time I remounted the fuel tank. The bike sputters to a stop 20 miles south of the border where I plan to top off on fuel. It’s relatively early in the riding day and I’m already up against the ropes for making Rio Gallegos. The 2 stations I stopped at for fuel in Rio Grande were out of fuel and since my reserve light was not on I pressed on. For a moment I’m amused at how easily a simple technology dissects me from the reality that the 200 mile ride at 85+mph in a driving wind would exceed the SE’s fuel range. I started the day with 30 miles on the tank to add to the humiliation. So here I am under the falling dominoes of events and out of gas in Tierra del Fuego. A half hour passes and I’m unable to acquire fuel from the number of vehicles that stop to assist. It’s starting to look like I need a plan B when 3 men crowded into a small flat bed pull up. We talk briefly and with little hesitation they offer to drive the 40 mile round trip to get gas for me. I continue to be humbled by the generosity of the people I meet in South America. They punctuate their kindness by not letting me pay them for their effort. They won’t even let me pay for the fuel.

I reach the first border station anxious to make up for lost time. The Argentine border agents are having none of that and decide to single me out for a bag search. I have to pull all the gear off the bike and run it through the x-ray machines. It broke my heart to explain to the border agent who discovered my stash of ibuprofen that he wouldn’t be getting a promotion for making a big drug bust. I reach the port just as the Ferry was preparing to leave. Finally some good luck. Not so fast, this ferry is for commercial trucks and I could not convince the operator to let me on in spite of there being plenty of space for my bike. A half hour later the next ferry arrives. It dawns on me as I leave the burning islands that I’m no longer in the Andes Mountains. I’ve ridden almost 20K miles in the world’s longest mountain range since landing on the shores of Cartagena some 8 months ago and now they’re gone, just like that.

It’s dark when I reach the last border station where I enter Argentina for the second time today. The process goes quickly and I fight blinding truck lights for the remaining distance to Rio Gallegos. I top off the bike’s fuel upon arriving and the battery is flat when I attempt to restart the bike. It takes a few attempts but I get the bike bump started with the help of the station attendants. After an hour looking for accommodations I finally settle for the least expensive of the options and find some dinner. It’s been “one of those days” but the kindness of my amigos in Tierre del Fuego is what I will remember from today.

Tags: ADV, Adventure Travel, Argentina, Chile, KTM 950, Rio Gallegos, SE, Super Enduro, Superenduro, Tierra del Fuego, Ushuaia