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The holidays take my breath away

The ride to Puno is short and paved, which is good since I’m not in the mood for one of my marathon riding days. Two weeks in Chicago (at sea level) over the holidays have left me gasping for breath at Puno’s 12k ft. After months of riding the Andes I appear to have lost […]

Chicken breast pizza and 33 churches

After a few days in Huanuco and feeling I’ve reached the apex of my cold I push on to Huancayo. Sitting at 11K ft the city is the largest so far in my Peru route. The bike’s oozing fork seals get a reprieve as the route is mostly good pavement and a cold driving rain […]

Chavin Ruinas and the road to Huanuco

I hit a construction road closure south of Huaraz less than a half hour out of town. As I sit waiting for the attendant to flip the Pare sign and wave me through I reminisce of Colombia where moto riders are waved through road closures and construction typically translated in to me riding long stretches […]

The Canon del Pato

I don’t normally prefer coastal resorts but Huanchaco appeals to me. Perhaps it’s the stark contrast of mountains against the cool coastal desert or maybe it’s just the tranquillo setting and laid back attitude of its inhabitants that does it for me. Whatever it is, after two months of riding in the mountains I welcome […]

Where it all began

In spite of getting in to Celendin late I opt to keep rolling the following morning and point the bike toward Cajamarca (Caja). I´m in awe of the beauty of the countryside and mountain peaks I missed in the darkness of the previous evening´s ride. The road south is similar to the road I took […]

Peru time

I depart Chachapoyas in the morning around 9ish, a time slot I’ve settled into since leaving the states. I’m heading to Kuelap to check out some ancient ruinas and then on to Celendin. I have a bad habit of underestimating the time and effort required to accomplish a given day’s riding schedule and this will […]

The border crossing less travelled

The La Balsa border crossing is infamous for its relaxed imigracion office, meaning, the one official assigned to the post likes to take extended lunches and can be difficult to locate. The day I arrive is no different. I ascertain from the locals the imigracion officer left and no one really knows when he’ll return. […]

Grounded in Quito

I stay at Casa Helbling in Quito where Claus and Jesse take real good care of me after the accident. Claus meets me at the ER to make sure I didn’t have any problems and even drives me back out to Cayambe to retrieve my bike. He and Jesse have a nice operaton at Casa […]

Colombia de despedida

I depart Medellin on a quiet Sunday somewhat melancholy and my sights set on the southern border. The bike responds effortlessly to my commands as if to thank me for the maintenance I performed on her in Medellin. After thousands of pavement miles on knobbies and a soft rear suspension I welcome the predictability of […]

Medellin sojourn

I’ve spent enough time in Medellin that I suppose I should produce a chronicle of pictures and stories about my time here. The city’s history, its position as a Latin American cultural Mecca, and its proximity to some of the most scenic riding in Colombia make for an excellent chapter to just about any moto […]